The princess cut is an instant favourite that’s recognised by its curved, squarish table and pointed girdles. But beyond its fancy shape, royal name, and widespread hype, what exactly does the princess (a type of square cut diamond) cut have to offer jewellery wearers of today?
This blog takes you through everything you need to know about this modern yet contemporary diamond cut (shape), so anyone reading it can make the right decision when it comes time to pick an engagement ring.
What is a Princess Cut Diamond?

Also going by the name ‘square modified brilliant’, princess cut stones are an attraction on their own, and mimic the emerald cut when it comes to jewellery.
Their warm lines make for a smooth box shape that looks distinct compared to traditional diamond cuts, such as the round cut and oval cut. A diamond featuring the princess cut features anywhere between 58 and 72 facets.
Unlike the brilliant round cut diamond that has a definite cut grade by the GIA, the diamond with the princess cut doesn’t have the same defined fate and can vary in appearance, only slightly.
A princess shaped diamond is often mixed up with the Asscher diamond cut, which is distinguished by its cropped corners, albeit it does have a similar boxed appearance.
History of Princess Cut Diamonds
The princess cut originally started off from the locally known “French Cut”. The was based on the ‘table cut’, and the more modern “Princess” variation only arrived after diamond cutters became aware of the ideal ratios, angles, and proportions of fancy diamond shapes.
The exact year or time when the term “Princess shape” was coined, and though it’s still debated, historians have stated the 1960’s as the point in time. It was 1980 when this diamond cut really took off, and princess cut engagement rings became a mainstay!
Anatomy of a Princess Cut Diamond
As mentioned, there could be countless variations of a princess cut diamond’s appearance, and therefore, one universal cut grade cannot be standardised. That said, this cut could have
The princess or square modified brilliant cut anatomy is quite different from classical diamond cuts, and the main parts it contains are:
The crown: Portion joining the table and girdle
The table: topmost section of the diamond
The culet: the bottommost section of the diamond or the underlying tips
The girdle: outer realm of the diamond
The pavilion: angles section connecting the culet and girdle
When viewed from the top, this variant of square cut diamond displays a typical inverted-pyramid shape. Also, it creates an unmissable “X” shape with clear lines showing how light is reflected and refracted.
The Ideal Proportions of a Princess Cut Diamond
Men looking to buy a princess cut diamond engagement ring for their beloved should take note of these ideal proportions. These stones exhibit the best sparkle and shine when they have these proportions and ratios:
Depth: Falling between 65% - 75%
Table: In the range of 65% to 75%
Girdle: Also known as the round bar, should remain on the thinner or moderate spectrum to ensure comfort, durability, and aesthetics.
Pros & Cons of the Princess Cut

Like every other diamond cut, the princess or square modified brilliant cut features typical pros and cons, which determine its popularity.
Pros of the Princess Cut Diamond
Princess-shaped diamonds are a popular diamond shape in engagement rings, so much so that they are the second most popular cut behind the brilliant round.
The sharp corners radiate shine and work to conceal any unpleasant flaws (imperfections).
Have a shiny appeal and sparkle well, but not as appealing as the brilliant round cut.
Modern diamonds feature a contemporary look that does appeal to those who love to keep up with trends.
Jewellers love making princess cut rings because they utilise as much of the rough diamond as possible.
Chosen mostly for women, the princess shape is elegant and feminine, making it a staple in any jewellery store.
Engagement rings with princess cut diamonds remain a mainstay for women across the globe.
Cons of the Princess Cut Diamond
The pointed corners of princess-shaped diamonds are prone to damage, as they are somewhat fragile and must be protected carefully.
Hype fuels greater demand for this cut, and you would have seen that a princess cut diamond ring attracts quite a price.
Crafting this cut is actually resource-intensive and can drive up prices, making it a ‘privileged’ diamond cut.
The depth of the pavilions of these princess diamonds may make them appear smaller, especially when compared to other modern diamond cuts.
Comparing the Princess Cut with Other Diamond Cuts (Shapes)

The princess shape is one with a balanced focus on sparkle as well as the clear passage of lines through the diamond’s internal structure.
1. Princess Cut Diamond vs Round Cut Diamond
The two core differences between a round cut and the princess cut are brilliance and size quotient.
The ‘brilliant round cut diamond’ is engineered to maximise light reflection using its symmetrical sculpturing. Although a princess-shaped stone does sparkle, it reflects light in a different way, creating a ‘crushed ice effect’.
Secondly, a 2 carat princess and a round-cut diamond appear to be of different sizes. This is a pro specification that this shape has over other ones, and when combined with its modern appeal, there’s no way to say ‘no’!
2. Princess Cut Diamond vs Emerald Cut Diamond
An emerald-cut diamond is cut to prioritise clarity over sparkle, so don’t be disappointed by its lacklustre sparkle! Being a step-cut, the best clarity is obtained, and the cut is perfected with ease.
Whether for a wedding or engagement, a princess cut ring is meant to create curiosity with its modernised geometric shape.
3. Princess Cut Diamond vs Oval and Pear Cut Diamonds
Unlike the princess cut, which is usually only square or rectangular, the oval and pear cut is an elongated shape. Such flattering shapes make the fingers appear slimmer and longer, an effect that the princess cut fails to do.
Also, both the oval and pear cut designs offer maximum finger coverage, making them look ever so slightly bigger than the princess cut’s design.
4. Princess Cut Diamond vs Cushion Cut Diamond
There’s a clear theme difference between these two diamond cuts. One looks modern, and the other is more regal with a vintage feel.
The lines are arranged more cleanly in the princess diamond, while the cushion diamond features less prolific lines. Also, the cushion-cut corners are not pointed; they are curved and soft.
Reasons to Buy Lab Grown Princess Cut Diamond Rings
These rings sit between round and cushion-cut diamond rings. When it comes to jewellery, let’s find out why:
Lab grown diamond rings are outperforming mined diamond rings when it comes to ethical, environmentally aware audiences.
The princess cut diamond doesn’t have to be set straight; it can be aligned with a tip facing downwards, creating numerous variations of wedding and engagement rings.
Unlike other diamond shapes, this one often comes slightly coloured, which adapts and suits modern ring designs.
Most rings with a princess cut lab grown diamond are available at a fraction of the cost of their mined counterpart design.
Despite their outclassing appeal, these rings can be picked up at bargain costs compared to the more traditional or trending ring designs.
When crafted from lab grown roughs, these engagement rings are mostly free of inclusions and flaws.
Popular Lab Grown Princess Cut Diamond Rings
Out of the trending fashion loop? Here’s a collection of some of the trending rings with princess cut diamonds.
1. Simple Solitaire Princess Cut Ring
These engagement rings are as simple as they come and ensure there’s one thing to look at; that’s a princess cut stone! This casual ring sees the highlight, the princess cut diamond placed inside a circle.
The band is designed neatly to look like a contracted spring, in a polished rose gold finish. The ring setting is a mixture of single, round prongs and a bezel setting, and meticulously blends the white gold prong with the diamond.
2. Princess Cut Eternity Rings
The eternity ring trend hasn’t ended, and you can still get on it with an eternity ring featuring this type of square diamond.
These rings live up to the hype with a complete circle of embedded princess shaped diamonds. The rose gold finish adds depth to the design and makes for ideal summer jewellery for women visiting a beach destination.
3. Casual Princess Cut Diamond Ring
For women who need an extra touch of appeal, adding yellow gold with a solitaire princess diamond is a good choice. The converging and diverging false bands create an appealing illusion that most simple rings don’t offer.
The centrally positioned princess cut diamond is hyped by four other Marquise diamonds, which, due to their cut, fit like pieces of a puzzle.
4. Princess Cut Halo Engagement Ring
The ‘halo’ design has been garnering attention for its appealing ring of sparkling accent diamonds. The ring’s crowning feature, a diamond in a stunning princess cut, is surrounded by a ring of round diamonds.
If that wasn’t enough, a half eternity ring is conjoined with the already diamond-studded focal point. Any woman would be lucky to be presented with this engagement ring during a proposal.
5. Modern Pavé Princess Cut Diamond
The pavé band appears to be pavement and shows several round diamonds that line up perfectly, like identical stones.
Although these round accent stones are breathtaking, your full attention will never be diverted from the core feature, the princess diamond. Merged with a warm rose gold finish, this ring makes for a forerunning design in women’s engagement rings.
6. Three-Stone Princess Cut Ring
The three-stone concept is a well-known and well-loved one that has had success globally. In this design, the central stone is none other than a princess shaped diamond.
On either side is a pear-shaped diamond, creating a classic combination that’s meant to be shown off. This diamond cut combination is held together by a yellow metal finish. The circular band adds a pleasing touch to the final design, and the round prong tips are given a white finish to match the white shine of the diamond.
7. Princess Diamond Toi et Moi Ring
The ‘Toi et Moi’ is a French-inspired ring design. The translation of the phrase from French to English is “you and me”, signifying the romantic theme behind these unique rings.
This ring features two diamonds set closely together and complementing each other. The diamonds, one being a princess cut, are selected to match each other's size.
Best Settings for a Princess Cut Diamond Ring

Just about every diamond ring with princess cut diamonds features one or a mixture of the following settings:
Round Setting
Universally accepted as one of the most versatile diamond settings, this prong is seen in just about every type of ring. It features single prongs arising at each of the four corners and has a meticulously rounded tip.
V-Shaped Setting
These are the preferred settings since they can prevent damage by securing the vulnerable corners of this type of square cut diamond. Here, the setting itself is soldered into a “V,” with the diamond secured from two angles.
Claw Setting
The claw is differentiated from a prong as more of the prong is visible, and it tapers to a sharp-looking end which projects from the outside. It’s an ideal setting for plain pieces where small details like this are appreciated over anything else.
Bezel Setting
The bezel setting exists for conscious women who don’t want their stone to fall out, crack, or get damaged!
End Note
Rings with princess cut diamonds make for an appealing sight when it comes to getting sentimentally significant rings, such as women’s wedding or engagement rings.
If you are drawn to bold, statement-making, modern jewellery, princess cut rings are ideal for you. If you’re looking to go the ethical route, buying a sustainable princess cut lab grown diamond ring is the better decision. Svaraa offers lab grown diamond rings in multiple diamond cuts and designs, expanding your options.
FAQs
What are the pros and cons of princess cut rings?
The pros include a larger appearance than other cuts, enhanced line clarity, being the modern, square version of the brilliant round cut, and delivering a unique ‘crushed ice sparkle’. The cons are a fragile structure due to its sharp points and an untraditional sparkle that doesn’t quite mimic that of the round brilliant cut.
Will princess cut diamond chip easily?
These diamonds are more prone to chipping and cracking than other diamond cuts.
Are princess cut diamonds outdated?
Princess cut rings are in fashion, especially in women’s rings.
Which diamond cut is better, round or princess?
Identifying which one is better pretty much depends on which property you want to prioritise. If you care more about sparkle, get the round cut; if you care more about clarity, get the princess cut diamond.
Is a princess cut diamond ring less expensive?
A ring’s price depends on its metal, diamond carat (weight), and to some extent its design intricacy.
